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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.